One of the beauties about Russian bikes is the simplicity of their design and the ease of which they can be worked on. To own one is to open up a whole new world of Do-It-Yerself projects, the majority of which can be accomplished with little more than the tool kit that comes with the bike. Whether you want to tackle Scheduled Servicing, major repairs, adding a few accessories or making a few upgrades, this page is the place to learn about them. You can also peruse the Neft & Zhir section of our message forum for more recent additions from our members. While most of these tips are specific to '05 and older Urals, some can also be used on Dneprs and newer model Urals. If you've turned a few wrenches yourself and have a few tips you'd like to share here, please submit them to the Head Cheese.
Suggested Upgrades - You get a pretty good new Ural rig for your money, but there are a few things that could use improvement right off the bat to increase performance and reliability. Note that a lot of these items can be purchased at Canadian Tire or any auto parts supply store.
Electrical - From corrosion proofing your wiring to adding a 12V accessory outlet, here's some tips on how to make your electrical system happy.
Motor/Transmission - Helpful suggestions to keep the mighty powerplant pulling strong.
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels - Mucking about with all the dirty bits that make your ride nice and smooth.
Bodywork - Keep your rig looking all nice and purty with these tips
Misc - Assorted WWID tips and tricks
Air Filter ('06 and older Ural) - the stock paper element is pretty restrictive to flow and gets waterlogged easily when riding in the rain. JR Filters make a nice oiled element for the Ural that will add a few HP and allow you to motor about in the wet without having to worry about stalling out the engine. See your Ural dealer for pricing.
Fuel Lines ('05 and older Ural) - the OEM Russian rubber gasline just does not like our good quality gas and is prone to weather cracking and dry rot. Any local auto parts store will sell good quality neoprene fuel line, for about $5 you can get a 3' length, which should be sufficient to replace all the lines. Don't forget the crossover line under the tank - if it ever rots out or splits it will dump the entire tank contents right on top of the air filter and alternator!
Fuel Filters ('06 and older Ural, Dnepr) - any good quality automotive inline fuel filter will add years to the engine life. Make sure you get a clear or translucent type (Canadian Tire has tons of these for cheap) so you can easily see the fuel flow.
Spark plug wires ('06 and older Ural, Dnepr) - ditch the stock Russkie wires and get a length of solid copper core wire and 90 degree NGK spark plug boots from CDN Tire or your local auto parts store and you'll never have to worry about wires shorting out in the rain again. Don't forget to smear a little dielectric grease on the spark plug terminal before sliding the boot onto it.
Fasteners (all Ural, Dnepr) - most of the OEM fasteners are unplated and will quickly corrode. As they begin to rust, replace them with metric sized stainless steel nuts and bolts (except on Gear-Up models, of course, as this will totally ruin the whole camo effect). Don't forget to use Loc-Tite (removable grade) and lockwashers. Note that stainless fasteners are expensive, so you may want to use the cheaper and more widely available cadmium plated steel ones instead. Whichever type you choose, ensure that they are automotive grade and of equivalent or greater strength than the stock fasteners.
Dielectric Grease (all Ural, Dnepr) - one of the Russkie bike owner's best friends. Get yourself a big tube of it and spend a quiet Saturday afternoon smearing it onto every fuse tip, light bulb base and wire connector you can find. The wiring harness is not very well protected from the elements and the application of this grease in all the secret spots will greatly reduce the chances of electrical faults caused by corroded terminals.
Signal Flasher Unit ('06 and older Ural) - Go to Canadian Tire and get a heavy duty 2-prong (3-prong for '06 and later Ural) electronic unit and a few of the blue, female spade crimp-on connectors. Disconnect the battery, remove the headlight and the black plastic flap underneath it to expose the wiring in front of the steering neck. Locate the flasher unit (big, round metal cylinder mounted by two bolts onto a bracket) and remove it. Cut the two connectors off and crimp on the new spade types. Ensure the positive (or "hot") lead goes to the proper terminal on the electronic flasher, this info will be printed on the flasher body. The hot lead is the one that has two wires on one terminal, one going to the inline fuse (black, square plastic plug behind the headlight) and the other going to the neutral light on the dash). Wrap a piece of foam self-adhesive weatherstripping around the flasher unit and use a zip tie to secure it to the original bracket. Note that the signals will blink more rapidly, but they'll also work at any engine speed now. Also note that extreme cold weather (-10C or colder) will usually result in the flasher unit refusing to operate until warmer weather comes along. Know your hand signals for this occasion!
Horn (all Ural, Dnepr) - the OEM unit usually doesn't last very long. When it dies, go to CDN Tire (or any auto parts store) and get their trumpet shaped universal automotive horn. I chose the Fiamm "Freeway Blaster" for extra sound. Disconnect the battery. Use the metal mount strip that comes with the new horn, as it will allow the horn to vibrate better than the thicker OEM Russkie one - this will give a louder honk. Mount the horn in the same spot as the stock one and adjust the metal mount strip to orient the horn so that the wires aren't stretched. Prepare to crap your pants after you reconnect the battery and hit the horn button!
12V Accessory Plug ('05 and older Ural, Dnepr) - want an electric vest for cold weather riding? Got a cell phone charger or other electric toy you want to bring along? Go to CDN Tire and get their marine grade 12V accessory outlet (the one encased in black plastic with a spring loaded lid), an inline blade type fuseholder, a 10a fuse, three blue barrel style crimp on connectors, two blue crimp on battery terminal connectors (the flat, round ones with a hole in the center - you may have to get the yellow ones as they have a larger diameter hole that will fit over the battery bolt) and one roll each of red and black 14AWG automotive wire. Disconnect the battery. Bolt the accessory outlet to a convenient location (under the front seat, on top of the air filter cap, etc) and using the barrel connectors, crimp on a sufficient length of black wire from the negative wire of the outlet to the negative terminal of the battery or a convenient frame ground point. Do the same with the red wire from the positive wire of the outlet to just behind the metal left side cover under the front seat. Use the other barrel connector to crimp on the inline fuse holder, then crimp the battery connector on to the other end and attach it to the positive side of the battery. Install the 10a fuse in the holder, hook up the battery, replace the side cover and you're done! For extra security and peace of mind, use heat-shrink tubing over all the connections.
Handlebar Switchgear (all Ural, Dnepr) - regular squirts of WD-40 into the switches will keep them operating smoothly, especially in winter. Don't forget to spray the clutch and brake lever pivots while you're at it, too.
Checking Oil Levels (all Ural) - the owners manual tells you how to check the oil level but leaves out one important detail. Do you screw the dipstick all the way in or just place it in the hole when checking the level? Well, here's the answer... unscrew the dipstick, wipe it clean and then place it back in the hole so it rests lightly on the threads; do not screw it back in. Then remove it again to check the oil level. This procedure is the same for the final drive dipstick, too. For the transmission oil, remove the fill plug and ensure the oil level comes to the level of the MIDDLE thread of the plug hole.
Clutch Arm Pivot Pin (all Ural) - the clutch actuating arm pivots around a hardened steel pin, which is held in place by a small cotter pin. Over time the action of the clutch arm can wear off and/or pull the cotter pin out of its hole, allowing the pivot pin to work its way loose and bail out on you at the most inopportune moment - leaving you with no clutch! An emergency fix can be made with a 5/16" diameter by 1 1/2" long shoulder bolt and a nylon locknut (easily stashed away in the tool roll). Grease the shoulder bolt before slipping it into place (insert it so the bolt head ends up on the left side of the actuating arm), then tighten the locknut. This will last long enough for you to order in a replacement pin and should be replaced as soon as possible. The shoulder bolt is slightly undersize and is not hardened which means it will wear rapidly, resulting in frequent clutch adjustments to compensate.
Deep Sump (all Ural, Dnepr) - the stock oil pan holds just enough oil to keep the motor from seizing up. Your friendly Ural dealer carries a deep sump and extended oil pickup kit that will extend engine life by increasing the capacity to 3 litres. Thanks to the extended pickup drawing cooler oil from lower area of the pan, it will result in a cooler running motor. Make sure you have a magnetic drain plug to trap any nasty metal fragments that don't get caught by the oil filter. The stock oil pan can now be used as a handy nuts 'n' bolts tray in the garage or as a neat candy tray in the living room (check with your SWMBO first to make sure it doesn't clash with the decor).
Crankcase Vent (all Ural, Dnepr) - this valve expels pressure from the crankcase to prevent leakage out the seals and piston rings, it's located on the left front side of the engine and has a hose leading from it to the left side of the airbox. Because the valve dumps directly into the left side of the airbox and not into the air filter, after a few hundred km's it will have deposited enough oily mist to line the left side intake tract and carb mouth. Eventually it will saturate it to the point that the oil will be drawn in with the intake mixture, which will foul the spark plug and affect performance. Get a 2 1/2' length of 5/8" diameter automotive heater hose and a small plastic bottle; route the hose from the valve to a convenient location on the frame or underneath the transmission and stuff the end into the bottle. Use duct tape to seal the hose to the bottle neck, then use a centerpunch to make a series of small vent holes near the top of the bottle. This will allow the air to escape but will trap the oil and collect it in the bottle. Check it regularly to ensure the vent holes are clear and empty it whenever it gets full of oil.
Tire Changes (all Ural) - use the spare tire mount on the trunk lid of the sidecar as your "workbench" when changing or repairing tires. It puts the tire at a more accessible position and saves you from crawling around in the dirt.
Centerstand - (all Ural) - a bit awkward to use during tire changes, especially with a flat tire, but it can be made easier with a chunk of 2X4. Place the wood behind the rear tire and roll the bike backwards onto it. Now deploy the centerstand and remove the wood from under the tire. A slightly more expensive solution is to purchase and carry an automotive scissor jack with you. Although you have to crawl under the bike to position it, you won't be straining your back from the effort of trying to heave 334 kg+ of bike, luggage and beer onto the centerstand.
Rear Brake Adjustment (Tourist, Patrol, Gear-Up) - Pop the bike onto the centerstand and, while rotating the rear wheel with the trans in neutral, slowly wind in the brass adjuster nut at the end of the brake linkage rod until you feel the wheel start to "drag". This is difficult to gauge, as the final drive and transmission gears induce their own drag and it's hard to "feel" at which point the brake shoes start rubbing. An easier method is to wind the adjuster in until the brake pedal free travel is approx 2". Back off the adjuster one complete turn and go for a ride of at least 20km on a route that has few stops (the more stops, the more the brakes heat up the drum/hub and give a false indication). If the hub is cold, wind in the adjuster one full turn and repeat. When the hub becomes warm but not hot (ie: you feel the warmth with your hand and can hold it there without getting burned), that's where you want to leave the adjustment at. Now do a few hard stops from about 60kmh using the rear brake only - be warned that the rig may slew to one side or the other depending on which brake (rear or sidecar) is set to come on first. If the rig slews left, wind the sidecar brake adjuster in one full turn at a time until the rig stops true with rear brake only applied. If the rig slews right, back off the sidecar brake until the rig stops true. Then let the hubs cool down completely and go for another 20km run, checking at the end to see if the hubs are warm or hot. If warm, carry on and try a few panic stops with front and rear brakes to confirm the settings. If hot, back off the adjustment on the offending hub and repeat the entire process again.
Rust Control (all Ural, Dnepr) - parts like the front fender seams and the underside of the chrome side panels are prone to rusting. Keep this in check by frequent cleaning sessions and liberal use of WD-40. Spray it into all the nooks and crannies and coat the underside of the chrome side panels with it after every wash, if you're a winter rider you'll find this will help keep the rig looking shiny despite all the damaging effects of road salt.
Front Fender Removal(leading link front end) - Remove all the fender bolts and the grab rail, saving the two nuts under the headlight for last so the fender doesn't fall off. Then remove the headlight bucket (optional step, but it gives more room) and the last two nuts and the plastic shroud that covers the wires behind the headlight. Remove the headlight trim ring and headlight (if you don't, bottom of the trim ring will gouge the paintwork on the fender in the next step). Holding the fender on both sides about 6" in from the front, slide the fender forward off the studs, then lift it as high as possible and give it a quick, sharp twist clockwise while simultaneously pulling the fender towards you - it'll just pop right out. There is a risk of a scratch occurring on the upper fender surface from one of the mount tabs on the right fork leg, but it can be lessened by placing a rag between the fender and the tab before removal. The alternative to this procedure is to disassemble the entire front end, dropping the forks and then removing the fender by sliding it all the way up and clear - a very long and complicated method.
Rear Fender Removal (Tourist, Patrol Gear-Up) - Put the bike on the centerstand, disconnect the battery and remove the rear wheel. Remove both tractor seats or bench seat. Remove the tail light housing and disconnect the wires at the terminals in the back (make a note of their location first). Remove the signal light lens, bulb and socket, then disconnect the wire OR cut the wire leading to the signal light at a point somewhere underneath the tail light top bracket. Remove all the fender bolts and grab rail, saving the bolt at the top front of the fender (closest to the seat area) for last. As you remove the fender, pull the wiring harness out through the channel welded to the underside. To install, wrap the wire ends with some electrical tape, forming a tapered tip. Smear a bit of dielectric grease on the end and along the length of the cable sheathing, then work the harness through the channel on the underside of the fender and out the tail light end. Replace the top front bolt first, leaving it loose enough to allow fitment of the remaining bolts. Use blue Loc-Tite on all the bolts and dielectric grease on all the wiring ends or Ken Beach will haunt you in your dreams. Install the connectors onto the tail light terminals and replace the tail light assy. Thread the signal light wire into the signal light housing and reconnect OR using a blue (16 AWG size) barrel, strip both ends of the signal light wire, crimp the connector in place and tuck the wire under the top taillight bracket and into the metal retaining clip on the underside.
Gas Tank Rubber Trim Removal (Tourist, Patrol, Gear-Up) -The kneepads have a rubber channel that fits tightly over a metal flange on the side of the tank. They are removed by carefully lifting one corner of the rubber channel clear and then gently pulling the rest of the rubber clear of the flange groove. The rubber trim strip is removed with a very small punch and a hammer. If you look at the very front of the tank you'll see a metal loop that the end of the rubber is inserted into. There's a metal wedge with a serrated edge jammed on the inside of that loop, it grips the rubber and keeps it from sliding out. Insert a small punch into the outside opening of the loop and drive the metal wedge out towards the frame. Then just pull the trim strip clear of the loop and peel it away from the tank. For the tank badges, get a length of fishing line and use it with a sawing motion to cut through the adhesive pad bonding the badge to the tank. Use "Goo-Gone" or a similar product to remove the glue residue. To replace the tank badges, you can buy strips of the 3M adhesive used to stick body mouldings to cars. Should be available at any auto parts store. To replace the rubber trim strip, mount the tank back onto the bike first and warm up the rubber with a hair dryer. Insert one end through the metal loop on the front of the tank and stick it out far enough so that you can see the teeth marks from the metal wedge. Place the wedge into the teeth marks and carefully pull the trim strip into the metal loop until the wedge seats itself and bites into the rubber. Keeping tension on the strip at all times, pull it tightly all around the tank. Reheat the other end with the hair dryer and repeat the step for installing the other metal wedge. Once the trim piece cools down it will shrink to a very tight fit around the tank. For the kneepads, start at one corner and feed the rubber channel into the metal groove all the way around. The rubber channel is thin, so be careful not to rip it. You can also use the hairdryer to soften it up. NOTE: When removing the gas tank from the bike... don't forget about the crossover hose at the rear underside!
Trunk Lid (all pre '06 Ural) - Because of the metal-on-metal contact, your trunk lid will be rattling and banging over every bump. To solve this, get a roll of 1" wide by 3/8" thick self-adhesive automotive weather stripping from CDN Tire and frame the trunk opening with it (do not put it on the underside of the lid). You'll notice the handle will stay in place now when you close it and there'll be less water leaking in there when riding in the rain, too.
Throttle Lock ('05 and newer Ural) - If your carbs are adjusted properly, you'll find that in cold weather the bike will not idle properly until fully warmed up. You can hold the throttle at a fast idle setting with your hand, but that means you can't let go until the motor is able to run on its own. You can get a Vista-Cruise or similar throttle lock but they tend to cost around $80... OR... you can get a large diameter O-ring (or a length of very small diameter hose) for pennies and make your own throttle lock. Cut the O-ring in half, stretch it and wedge it into the gap between the throttle grip and the switch housing. This jams the throttle in place and you can now set it to a fast idle and let the bike warm up without stalling while you put your riding gear on.
Aluminum Drain Bolt Washers (all Ural) - The drain bolts/washers are 14mm diameter, available at any motorcycle shop.
Spoke tension/adjustment -
http://www.dansmc.com/spokewheels.htmBattery Tender vs Trickle Charger - Beware of the difference between a battery tender and a trickle charger. A trickle charger will automatically switch from - for example - 10 to 4 to 2 amps. So a discharged battery will be charged at the maximum rate at the beginning (10) and then switch at 4 when charged at 80% and then switch at 2. The problems are that charging a battery at 10 or even 4 amp will charge it very rapidly, which is good if you need a fully charged battery rapidly, but bad for battery life on long term. Also, a 2 amp trickle charge is too high. It will make the acid+water boiling and evaporate eventually. So it will dry the battery. This is why you must not leave it on all the time.A battery tender (like the Battery tender Junior or the Optimate) is using a 1 amp (actually anything between 0.7 and 1.5 amp) to charge the battery (so it will take much longer but it is much better for the battery) and when the battery is fully charged, it is switching automatically to a 0.1 Amp charge, which is enough to keep the battery fully charged, without damaging it. Some new battery tender even have a built-in timer which will switch off the charger automatically for a few minutes every 8 hours or so. So the best is NOT to use a battery charger or a trickle charger, but a battery tender and always leave it plugged in when the bike sits in the garage.
Yearly improvements 2006 and up (Ural) - http://www.uralnw.com/ural/yearlychanges.html